2017 Solitaire Pinot Noir
and so it continues...
SOLITAIRE 2017 – ONE BIG BARREL
Single Vineyard, Single Clone, Single Barrel – MonoClone®
Learning from the best in Chambolle
On our last visit to Burgundy, Don and I were privileged to spend time with Francois Bertheau, who has been a great favorite of mine for crafting the most elegant and complex Chambolle, especially his Bonnes Mares. This was a long day of great food and extraordinary wines, but the most compelling memory was the tasting of the 2007 vintage in barrels, which were simply intoxicating. Francois was especially generous with his time as we had a thousand questions and he revealed without hesitation what he believes makes his wines so compelling. One of the key component is that Francois will use large 600 liter barrels from a specific forest and tonnellerie (cooperage). He also extends the aging to allow for the wine to develop exotic aromatics and to round the shoulders, creating wines of great complexity, lace, and silk.
We took note. Years later, Don and I still speak of that magical day that was truly an epiphany for us, especially after we opened some of the 2007 Bonnes Mares and Les Amoureuses that we were so fortunate to taste in barrel and enjoyed once bottled. Simply put, they are why we make Pinot Noir.
In 2017 as the planets aligned, we decided that the time was right to put that “Bertheau” philosophy to the test. From the vineyard nestled in the redwood forest, we selected the very best grapes through multiple passes at harvest and with 50% whole cluster fermentation. We aged the wine in ONE 600 liter barrel, with this vintage we felt we it could age for an extended time…we waited, AND WAITED…for 28 Months…to create SOLITAIRE.
There are very few times one can feel truly lucky and privileged that their craft can stand along with the very best. SOLITAIRE confirms all of our expectations and embodies our commitment and passion to craft compelling Pinot Noirs. SOLITAIRE originates from humble admiration of the magnificent, peerless wines of BERTHEAU and we thank Francois for showing us the way.
SOLITAIRE is simply magical, if you have the chance to taste this wine blind next to a Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Bertheau, it will be quite a day!!!! I simply can not believe how amazing the similitudes are, especially being from opposite side of the world. Our goals have always focused on being in the conversation with Great Burgundies and SOLITAIRE is the reward – anything else for us is simply not acceptable. Some may feel that it is presumptuous of us to even declare such ideas, others, closer to us hint it is just madness…obsession.
We could tell you so much more about this fascinating wine, the magnificent vineyard, steep slope in the middle of the redwoods, just a few rows lost in the fog, the commitment to pick over multiple days in the middle of the night to gather the very best clusters, the search for the perfect barrel, but the best part will be in the glass, when you really taste this wine.
When we opened the first bottle the other night over one of our legendary dinners next to a 2007 Bertheau Bonnes Mares, we were speechless and a little confused of which one was in which glass. I thought that I may have switched the glasses in error. Then we smiled, we smiled a lot. Since SOLITAIRE was born from One 600 liter barrel and we also believe that this Pinot Noir will age magnificently, we also decided that we would bottle many Magnums. Big barrel. Big bottles, makes sense to us.
In Burgundy, a winemaker may reserve a special barrel for friends and family. They call this barrel Soliste. SOLITAIRE defines the origin and the promise of Soliste. From one barrel only 52 cases of 750s and 78 Magnums of Solitaire were produced. Although it hurts to part with so few bottles, sharing this special release with you, the very few that have been loyal supporters of our journey, fills us with joy and pride.
SOLITAIRE ….. ENIGMATIC GRACE OF MUSIGNY
2017 Solitaire Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Tasting Notes
Le Regard / The Look
Deep Crimson with density in the glass, much less viscous than the 2016, after a few swirls, one can detect tannin specs from the press, adding amethyst hues to the center of the glass.
Le Nez / The Nose
The first bouquet is very earthy, with ground wet stone, graphite, and dry herbs. After a few swirls, the nose shifts to red cherry compote, Kirsh, dried raspberries with mint, coniferous forest floor, rose petals, sage, and game. After a longer decant, the nose reverts to the earth tones and spices with vanilla and tobacco framing the aromas into a superb elixir.
Degustation / The Taste
The front palate is vivacious, raspier than the 2016, chewy and dry, with a very defined mélange of Raspberry liquor, Montmorency red cherries, cranberries layered with wet stone, sous bois, blood orange bitters, violets, and espresso. I have rarely tasted a Pinot with such verve, complexity, and yet all in perfect harmony. The mid-palate continues seamlessly into elevating the primary fruit notes by adding exotic spices, dry herbs, white pepper, Kirsh, fennel, and graphite. As the wine evolved in the decanter, broader shoulders emerged, magnifying the purity of the fruit with the ever-present extract of floral and herbal added to the firm tannins. A superb length flows with great verve, creating a chiseled structure finishing with elevated notes of mocha, cocoa nibs, pine needles, morello cherries. and dry tea must. Solitaire 2017 is a wine of great verve, complexity, and finesse…The Pinot Noir Paradox…Soliste.
SOLITAIRE 2017, Le Chambertain…West